Driving west on US 33 going to the Shenandoah national Park,
you probably would never notice an otherwise nondescript country store called
Blue Run Grocery. It is on the right side of the road approximately 7 miles
from Ruckersville. It is a bit shabby as these stores tend to be. Inside can be
found a small selection of primarily canned groceries, along with basic
automotive supplies, some fishing and hunting sundries, and a hodgepodge of
miscellanea of another age that apparently just never sold. What sets this
country store apart from all but one of similar establishments in the state of
Virginia, is that you can actually drink beer on premises.
It will come as no surprise that Virginia has some of the
most arcane alcohol beverage control laws in the nation. Virginia's Alcoholic
Beverage Control Board Administrative Code chapter 50 governing retail
operations code is specific about what establishments can allow on premises
alcohol consumption:
C. Beer. Retail on-premises or on-premises and
off-premises licenses may be granted to persons operating the following types
of establishments provided that food is regularly sold at substantially all
hours that beer is offered for sale and the total monthly food sales for
consumption in dining areas and other designated areas on the premises are not
less than …….$2000
The conceit seems that the establishment must operate as a
restaurant that also can serve alcohol.
So how are the Blue Run Grocery and Wayside Inn Grocery
(Charles City) allowed to serve alcohol on premises.
I had heard about Blue Run’s unique status from a friend
who, when in the area, makes it a habit to stop and quaff a beer just for the
experience. So I went there this August to learn more.
Inside the claustrophobic grocery store section, I met the
owner, Michael Garth.
He is a rather laconic gentleman, but was not hesitant to
discuss the history of the store. He notes the store was built in 1939 by his
grandparents, Thomas and Magnolia Garth.
It was named for the nearby creek or
run as they are known in northern Virginia. His father added on to it when he
took over the business. They’ve had an ABC license ever since it was open. As a
result, the older original section had an ABC license allowing consumption of
alcohol on premises that has never lapsed. However, you can only drink in the
original premises. A few beer advertisements attached to the floor designate
the line past which open spirits must not go. He only sells beer, no wine.
He remembers helping his grandmother work the store when he
was very young. He recalls his grandmother wouldn’t let anybody drink before
noon. He says that he has no such rule, but there are not too many people in here
drinking before noon anyway.
He has several sons to help with the business, one of whom
he thinks will take it over. He also owns a nearby farm. When asked how
business was, he said it pays the bills.
He says he has never served food other than the available
bagged snacks.
I inquired about the stock. He said it’s harder to keep it
stocked now that the salesmen who used to come by no longer do. He thinks the
last one came calling about eight years ago. Unsurprisingly, his biggest sales
item is beer.
He notes that the
booths in the back are original. The walls are adorned with the trophies of
animals and fish that he and his sons bagged, placed there for the amusement of
the customers. He says that this is really a gathering place for local people
to come in after work and weekends.
I wondered if perhaps he received undue attention from the
ABC agents due to its unique status. He said no, once they showed up with an
underage person trying to buy beer, but that was about it.
He said the original license has been grandfathered in. But
ABC code is pretty specific about requiring food sales. I wondered how this
could be. And in looking over the code I could find no reference to
grandfathering.
I spoke with ABC special agent Joseph Cannon on 11/22/19. He
doesn’t feel that the license renewal would be characterized as grandfathered,
but continues under a provision in the Alcoholic Beverage Control Board
Administrative Code chapter 50 governing retail operations
E. The board may grant a license to an establishment not
meeting the qualifying figures in this section, provided the establishment
otherwise is qualified under the applicable provisions of the Code of Virginia
and this section, if it affirmatively appears that there is a substantial
public demand for such an establishment and that the public convenience will be
promoted by the issuance of the license.
He notes that this was a provision previously designed for
more rural areas that might not have any other public facility to gather and
drink.
So apparently, this unassuming little grocery store,
described by its owner as a gathering place, qualifies.
ABC licenses can be tenuous. Wayside Inn Grocery, the other store so
licensed, just about lost its license back 2015 as it was alleged that they no
longer qualified as a grocery store. Somehow they prevailed, and one can still
imbibe on its premises. It is remarkable and admirable that Blue Run has been
able to maintain its heritage continuously since 1939. Three generations of
continuity and community, with hopefully a 4th generation in the wings.
Wick Hunt
P.S. I drove by the other day on the way to the park, Michael was outside the store working on his pickup. Not sure how he is dealing with the pandemic. Will try to check in with him later.
